Roof Shingle Wind Damage Assessment & Diagnosis For ...

Published May 15, 20
5 min read

What Freud Can Teach Us About How To Repair Roof Shingles After Wind Damage

When roof shingles are not set up appropriately, you might discover that they raise, leakage, and even fall off throughout the next windstorm. This kind of error can cost you more cash in the long-run. There are also certain security concerns to be familiar with when performing Do It Yourself roofing repair work.

A roof repair work can end up being even more dangerous if you try to perform a repair when it is windy, rainy, or when the roofing system is slick with damp leaves or particles. Hauling heavy shingles and nails up a ladder can likewise present a safety threat. Other safety concerns come from the use of unfamiliar products or devices.

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When you select to go the Do It Yourself path with your roof repair work, you not only risk losing cash however likewise your valuable time and energy. Replacing shingles on your roof is difficult work that can take hours and even days, depending upon the extent of the damage. As the materials are big, heavy, and difficult to steer, changing roofing shingles can be tough on the body.

It can be irritating to discover loose shingles tossed about your backyard after a storm. Nevertheless, this is a common problem that has a fairly easy fix. If your roof remains in otherwise good condition, just the damaged area itself can be changed to prevent water from seeping under the surrounding shingles.

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For more details on how to repair roofing shingles blown off by a storm or to arrange a roof assessment, call our expert roofing system repair work specialists at Beyond Exteriors today. asphalt roof shingles.

There are 2 approaches by which shingles are connected to a roofing: roofing nails or adhesive strips. Normally roof nails have brief shanks, sharp points, and broad, flat heads that allow them to penetrate the shingle without tearing it. Some shingles are made with adhesive strips connected to the bottom which, when attached, creates a strong, water resistant seal to the shingle beneath it.

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It's excellent that the roofing is not dripping (you didn't mention that) however improper installation will develop leakages in the future. So, confirming a couple of key items and then officially alerting your home builder (by certified, return invoice mail) of inaccurate installation will secure your rights. I 'd examine the following: Number of nails in each shingle: Each roof maker needs a particular variety of nails into each shingle, typically 4 minimum.

( Where I live, 65 mph winds would require 5 nails per shingle.) You'll discover this information on each wrapper around each bundle of shingles. If no wrapper is around, you can discover it on the manufacturer's site. If you don't understand the name of the maker, call the builder. Nail Placement: I see this wrong on a lot of tasks.

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Nails must be above the top of the eliminated in the 3-tab shingle, but about 1" below the mastic strip. The majority of roofers wish to nail "in" the mastic strip. This is bad for two reasons: a) it misses the shingle directly below, so there are only 4 nails holding the shingle on the roofing system instead of 8 nails, and b) it develops a little dip in the shingle because it causes the shingle to flex down over the leading edge of the lower shingle.

Hand tabbing is putting a quarter size dab of roof mastic "by hand" under each shingle. However, the majority of roofing producers need hand tabbing "if the shingles have not self-sealed in an adequate time." This is a bit arbitrary, but "sufficient time" indicates "within the warranty period." (You can get that confirmed by the roofing maker.) So, the way to check this is to go up on the roofing and attempt to lift a shingle tab (bend a shingle tab up) (installing shingles).

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The roofing contractor will tell you the shingles will "self tab" down. That means they prepare for the sun heating the shingle up till it adheres to the mastic strip under each tab. The problem is that it might not get warm enough in your location or the nails are not set flush and the nails are holding the shingles up above the mastic strip.

Most roofing professionals will stretch that to 6" or 6. 1/2". That offers the opportunity for the wind to raise more of the shingle and creates inappropriate nailing, (missing the top of the lower shingle, etc.) Too except nails: Nails must entirely permeate the plywood. Can you see the nails from inside the attic? Roof sheathing is too thin: 1/2" plywood or 5/8" particle board minimum, I think.



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